With its own unique microclimate allowing citrus fruit to grow, Cannero is a Mediterranean haven in the Alps; in fact, in order to better evoke sun-kissed Mediterranean shores, the town was officially renamed, Cannero Riviera in 1947.

For sheer breath-taking beauty, Lago Maggiore can offer little to beat arriving by boat at Cannero when the sun is streaming down through the steep forested slopes behind the town.

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The landing stage (imbarcadero) lies on a pretty waterfront esplanade lined with upmarket hotels. This promenade is the heart of tourist life and takes you all the way round to the town’s main beach -  famous for being amongst the cleanest on Lago Maggiore - on the far side of a small promontory. You can also venture uphill into the warren of pedestrian alleyways and explore the old fishing town’s medieval core. A right turn just after the landing stage will take you to a stunningly beautiful tiny harbour tucked away almost out of sight.

 

Oranges and lemons

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Whilst many Lago Maggiore towns lay claim to lush Mediterranean vegetation, Cannero, or Cannero Riviera, to give it its full name, is the real deal. In addition to oleanders, olives and palm trees which grow throughout the area, you’ll find tangles of bougainvillea cascading over parched rocks, lizards darting amongst stone slabs and, above all, citrus fruit, plants which elsewhere on the lake usually have to be taken indoors during the cool winter months. South-facing and protected from cool winds from the north, though surrounded by alpine peaks, Cannero is a little enclave of warmth in a subalpine area.

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In times gone by, Cannero exported citrus fruit to other towns on the lake and even as far as Milan, but the industry later fell into abeyance. Then, ten years ago, the town decided to once more market its best known produce. Great efforts were made to ramp up and diversify production and a Citrus Festival was organised, now a very popular annual event, held every year in March.

 

Citrus park

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The 2016 festival was uncharacteristically cold with snow-covered lemons, creating a particularly photogenic juxtaposition. Most citrus trees are found in private gardens which, outside the festival dates in March, are closed to the public. Other than peeking over walls and through fences, the best alternative is the Citrus Park down to the right just above the beach (directly behind Cannero’s main beach bar). With entrance free of charge, the small steeply terraced garden, boasting some 50 plants, resembles an Italian coastal region. Any winter visitors though are likely to be disappointed as all the plants are covered against the cold.

 

The rare Canarone 

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The jewel in the citrus crown is the very rare Canarone variety, a lemon and citron hybrid, which locals claim can only be found here and of which only 100 kilos are harvested every year. A partnership has now been forged with the renowned Italian Slow Food movement in order to promote it.

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After exploring the citrus gardens, sit at an outdoor table by the lakeside, basking in the summer sun and watch the world go by. If you see a luxury boat moored next to a restaurant, chances are it is Swiss owned. In fact, Cannero is a very popular destination for visitors from Switzerland and prices are slightly higher than elsewhere on the lake. In common with its neighbour, Cannobio, the lakeside area of Cannero is suffused with a sense of calm prosperity.

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Though administratively part of Cannobio, and difficult to access without a private boat, Cannero gave its name to a tiny archipelago of islands on which sits what was once purported to be a pirate castle. They are visible from the road to Cannobio.