Look at Isola Bella from above and you might make out a ship-shaped vessel; look at it from the side and the profile of the island’s gardens resembles the filigree on a fairy-tale tiara. Whatever, it is immediately apparent that Isola Bella is the product not only of limitless funds but also of unbounded bombastic ambition and exuberant imagination run wild.

 

Like so many of Stresa and Lago Maggiore’s top sites (the stable of magnificent properties includes Isola Madre, Arona castle ruins, Anger Castle, much of Mottarone and the Cannero islands, the island palazzo and gardens were built by and still belong to the Borromeo family – the closest Italy comes to a royal family. Their plan, predating the Gulf sheiks and their island sculpting ventures by several centuries - was indeed to sculpt a ship-shaped island, transforming what had previously been an impoverished rocky outcrop into a triumphal monument.

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The island’s peeling palazzo and the spectacular surreal terraced gardens have to be contenders for first prize amongst attractions in north west Italy and no trip to Lago Maggiore would be complete without a visit. So set aside plenty of time and bear in mind that there is really no point travelling to the island if you’re not going to buy the entrance ticket to see its main draw.

There is also a very pretty miniscule village hemmed in between the gardens and and the lake and huddled around the baroque facaded church which is well worth a glance, but 10 minutes is all it takes to wander round the maze of alleyways crammed with souvenir stalls.

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Incidentally, if you’re having difficulty making out the shape of a ship (from aerial photos), the reason might be that the Borromeo family were oddly thwarted in the completion of their dream by something as prosaically democratic as the refusal by the remaining islanders to sacrifice their houses for the family’s grand design. Not only did the islanders refuse to budge, but their descendants are still there.

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Palazzo highlights include the “Sala Napoleon” where you can see the bed Napoleon slept in on 17/18 August 1797, the “Sala della Musica” with a display of old musical instruments and where in 1935 an important conference was held (the Stresa Conference) which was attended by the British and French prime ministers and Mussolini and the Galleria degli Arazzi (Tapestry Gallery) containing fine gold and silk Flemish tapestries. Another fascinating room is the Sala Grande, though as much for historical as architectural reasons.

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Works were suspended in 1671 and, incredibly, only resumed in 1948, being completed in 1959. An inspiring example of perseverance and dogged determination, even more so if one considers that the initial plans to develop the island were the brainchild of Lancellotto, a member of the Borromeo family who in 1501 started buying up islanders' houses. In other words, 464 years passed from genesis of the project to completion. As evidence of the fact that Italians take the long haul view to building projects, consider Milan Cathedral (Il Duomo di Milano) which was started in 1386 and was finally completed in 1965 (although there are still some blocks of stone that have yet to be carved into statues).

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For many, the highlight of the trip round the palazzo are the six grottos covered in pebbles evoking a mysterious underwater world.

 

Gardens

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You probably won't find yourself having to contend with crowds in the fabulous gardens. They are extensive enough to allow you to find relative solitude, especially on the more shaded northern side. With their abundance of exotic plants – oleanders, oranges, pomegranates, camphor, tamarind, banana, lotus, papyrus and water lilies, all originally shipped over from the mainland, together with building materials and tons of soil, the Italianate gardens, arrayed over ten rectangular terraces, are a feast for the senses and an interesting counterpoise to the equally stunning Isola Madre with its seemingly natural, English style. 

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After romanticism swept across Europe, the garden and palazzo’s over-the-top baroque idiosyncrasies started to fall out of favour and simpler, bucolic charms such as are to be found on Isola Madre became more popular.

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Notice the profusion of statues, obelisks, ponds, monumental flights of stairs, secluded balconies, fountains and exuberant baroque features and look out for the fantastic white peacocks strutting nonchalantly amongst the lush vegetation. All in all, a true otherworldly experience: where else can you find yourself strolling round a theatrical, Italianate, Mediterranean-tinged island with glimpses of snow-clad Alps in the distance?

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The focal point of the gardens, stunningly dramatic, whatever the weather, is the belvedere terrace at the top of the pyramid, 35 metres above the lake. Needless to say, the views are spectacular in every direction.

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There are two delightful towers in the garden; one has been turned into a very tasteful souvenir shop whilst the other is a wonderful café. We recommend the table by the window overlooking the lake - a great spot to while away time watching the water taxis shuttling back and forth between the island and the mainland.

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If you’d like something more substantial to eat, the historic restaurants on the island are the Belvedere and Elvezia – don’t forget that they can be subject to sudden crowd surges at lunch time as boats arrive.

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Bear in mind that it works out cheaper to buy combination tickets for entry to the Borromeo properties: Isola Madre, Isola Bella gardens and the Castle of Angera.