Though overlooking Lago d’Orta, these two hills are off the beaten tourist track. Buccione is surmounted by an immense stone tower whilst on top of Monte Mesma is a working monastery.

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Torre di Buccione

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Sprouting eerily from the summit of a forested, conical hill against the spectacular backdrop of Monte Rosa’s eternal snows, the Torre di Buccione (Buccione Tower) is reminiscent of a scene from a Tolkien film.

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In fact, the tower dates back to the XII Century and was essentially a watch tower, 23 metres high, designed to defend nearby villages.

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With a bell to be rung in the event of danger, the tower comprised three rooms one on top of the other. The walk up from the car park takes just 15 minutes through chestnut forest which was once farmland.

With its fine views, the summit makes a great place for a picnic but bear in mind that it is not possible to enter or climb up the tower.

 

Monte Mesma

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The other half of this nature reserve has a more pacific purpose. On top of wooded Monte Mesma (576 metres) is a church and a fine old monastery which around 5 monks call home.

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To climb to the summit, you have three options: you can drive up or, much more picturesquely, there are two cobbled via crucis (stations of the cross) lined with shrines; one path ascends from Lortallo and the other one from Bolzano Novarese, but both are easy to spot whilst driving along the main road, SP43. Look out for the information panels.

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The church is open to the public whilst the monastery, dedicated to Saint Anna and Saint Frances, and containing two cloisters, is only open by appointment. To book a visit, free of charge, call 0322998108.

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If you get the chance to visit, look out for the interesting “scaldatoio” (heating room), where monks once sat during cold winter days to warm themselves up in front of a large stone stove.

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The terrace in front of the church, where an olive tree grows, offers breath-taking views over Lago d’Orta.