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Unlike the big industrial scale ski domaines more common elsewhere, most of the ten ski resorts in the area between Lago Maggiore and the Swiss border are compact and friendly.

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Some of the lifts may be rickety and the facilities quaint and quirky rather than the slick operations found in more expensive resorts but these places certainly have their charm.

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As these are small resorts, parking and queuing is rarely a problem whilst prices are usually very reasonable.

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Snow cover in the three highest resorts, nudging up against Swiss border, is generally good. Further south, several lower altitude ski resorts which are unable to cover running costs, are teetering on the brink of closure and it is quite common whilst hiking in the mountains to come across once thriving, now derelict ski lifts and ski slopes now overgrown with trees.

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As for cross-country skiing in the Verbania/Lago Maggiore region, conditions are usually so good at Riale in Val Formazza that top international teams regularly choose to train there.

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There are also several other locations providing good cross-country skiing throughout the season.

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Alpe Devero

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Crammed up against the border with Switzerland, outlandishly beautiful Alpe Devero offers wonderful skiing in a spectacular car-free national park.

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Little changed over the decades, other than for the addition of a clutch of post-war chalets, Alpe Devero offers nostalgia buffs a taste of skiing as it used to be.

 

Après-ski is a beer or a glass of wine in one of the handful of frozen-in-time rustic stone and wood buildings where iron stoves burn invitingly in the corner.

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Enter one of the quaint bars and you'll be hit by the same friendly warm fug as if you'd walked in a hundred years ago. It doesn't get any more genuine than this.

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Antica Locanda Alpino in Alpe Devero

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Our favourite spot is the stunningly cosy Antica Locanda Alpino right in the heart of the tiny settlement near to the lowest ski lift. They provide bar and restaurant service and also have a couple of rooms for sleeping if you’re looking for accommodation.

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Skiing in Alpe Devero

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As for the skiing, though there are only three lifts, rising from 1640 up to 2212 metres, Alpe Devero offers over 9 kilometres of perfectly groomed slopes with an enjoyable range of runs. All ski levels are catered for, from a magic carpet lift for beginners to several black runs. Snow cover is usually good, thanks also to snow making machines. The small resort is usually open at weekends and during the Christmas holidays.

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Val Antrona

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Though sparsely populated, this interesting valley, which is off most tourists' radar, offers the complete trio of winter sports: skating, cross-country skiing and downhill skiing. Facilities however are extremely limited and the resort is only suited to beginners and families.

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 Cheggio in Val Antrona

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The tiny Cheggio ski area which comprises just one ski lift and two magic carpets, occupies a splendid setting, next to a village of old stone houses and barns.

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Prices are unsurprisingly very cheap. The cross-country track, which is free to use, is just a short 3 km trail in this delightful valley. It starts at Antronapiana, the major local village and meanders through woods and fields.

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The skating rink measuring sixty metres by thirty five is not artificially frozen and so only opens when the temperature falls below zero. It is however, the only rink in the province suitable for ice hockey and is used by the local team, Tritagiash.  

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Brinzio

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One of only two cross-country ski areas on the east side of Lago Maggiore, sunny Brinzio's low altitude : (500 – 530 metres) is an undeniable handicap, meaning that there is no guarantee of skiing throughout the winter - though conditions are helped somewhat by its position to the north of the Campo dei Fiori mountains.

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Brinzio offers two pistes, a blue one for beginners which is three kilometres long and a five kilometre red piste for more advanced skiers. The latter involves negotiating gently terraced fields. The “resort” is very well-organized, albeit on an amateur basis, and piste grooming is carried out regularly. There is no charge for using the pistes though donations are welcome. By way of après-ski there are several bars and restaurants in the attractive village of Brinzio just a few minutes walk from the pistes.

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Cardada

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Cardada's main interest as a ski resort or hiking centre lies not so much in its few, short pistes but in the fact that Cardada currently represents the only opportunity to ascend directly from lake level to ski-slopes.

 

The trip up is stunningly picturesque and involves a short funicular ride from Locarno centre, close to the main railway station, to the spectacular Sanctuary of the Madonna del Sasso pilgrimage site at Orselina. From there take the fast, recently installed cable car to Cardada where there is a restaurant and viewing point. Walk several hundred metres to the chairlift connecting with the summit at Cimetta.

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In addition to its excellent ease-of-access, once at the summit, you will doubtless become aware of the ski area's other great appeal: the breath-taking views over Lago Maggiore directly below. With its excellent exposure to the sun, the resort is also popular with non-skiers.

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Skiing at Cardada

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The resort is undoubtedly more suitable for beginners due the very limited height difference between 1340 and 1670 metres and the fact that, other than the chair lift, there are only three other fairly short lifts. There are no black runs though there is a reasonably steep red run through the trees on the north side of Mount Cimetta. This being Switzerland, prices will seem high for many.

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Cunardo

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At just 450 metres above sea level, Cunardo is probably Italy’s lowest viable ski resort.

 

Cunardo’s altitude handicap has not been a huge obstacle for the local cross country ski club which was the first in Italy to install artificial snow-makers so skiers can now glide along bizarre ribbons of snow.

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In addition, there is a thriving ski school, an oversized ski club building offering all conceivable facilities, night-skiing on floodlit pistes and piste grooming machines. The longest piste is 7,5 km.

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In competitions, Cunardo’s local athletes also regularly punch above their weight and the ski club is considered one of Italy’s top cross-country ski organisations.

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Domobianca

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Domobianca has traditionally been the local ski resort for people from Domodossola. It is a small, friendly resort offering several highly enjoyable long runs, with challenging steep sections including four black pistes, mostly through trees with a small section at the top above the tree line.

 

An old-fashioned resort, there are four chairlifts and two T-bars. There is ample parking, a ski hire building and a couple of cosy mountain restaurants. Domobianca also boasts a popular snow-park for snowboarders.

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Val Formazza

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With a very limited number of ski lifts and downhill pistes, the area is really all about cross country skiing rather than the downhill variety. 

 

Right at the top end of the triangle of territory that pokes into Switzerland, with its two separate ski areas, one catering for amateurs and one for experts, Formazza offers everything cross-country skiers crave and some of the best conditions anywhere in Italy; in fact Riale (Cherbächè in walser), the higher of the two sites at 1718 metres, regularly plays host to training sessions for international ski teams.

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The well-groomed piste at Riale covers a distance of 10 km and offers expert cross-country skiers some challenging terrain. Snow cover is excellent. It is possible to hire equipment and there are also a couple of restaurants where you can enjoy traditional local food.

 

San Michele in Val Formazza

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The alternative cross-country ski area is much lower down, at San Michele; it offers 12 km of cross-country pistes set in a glorious valley bottom, ski rental and a snack bar.

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The highlight though is lunch at Ross Wald agriturismo, nestled amongst pine trees in a wonderful position off the beaten track. Those who wish to visit the agriturismo but who don’t fancy skiing or walking there can be picked up by snowmobile – a truly unforgettable experience.  

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Downhill skiing in Val Formazza

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As for classic downhill skiing, there are a few pistes near Wald, in the heart of the walser valley. Some are suitable for beginners and there is one long run, Sagersboden, which is black, steep and thrilling.

 

 

Macugnaga

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Offering the opportunity to ski on the slopes of Monte Rosa, Europe's second highest mountain, Macugnaga, made up of several pretty villages, used to be considered a world-class ski resort with package tourists arriving from all over Europe and Italy. 

 

Due to underinvestment and distance from major cities, it is now somewhat down on its luck with certain lifts undoubtedly past their shelf life. Nevertheless, as skiing starts at 1400 metres (above other local resorts' highest point) and with wonderful runs on wide open slopes in the Monte Moro area, right up to the Swiss border, offering fine views over Monte Rosa's east face, Europe's only “Himalayan” wall, it is well worth the effort.

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With its Germanic Walser heritage and its gold mining history, there is also plenty to do when not skiing. Totalling around 40 kilometres of pistes, there are two separate, unconnected ski areas: Belvedere, at the foot of Belvedere glacier, which is more suitable for beginners and Passo Moro which is perfect for more expert skiers.

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The Belvedere area, rising from 1392 metres to nearly 2000 metres, comprises two chair lifts, a ski lift and two magic carpets for beginners. All pistes are either red or blue and it is often possible to ski all the way back to the valley bottom.

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The Passo Moro area, largely above the tree line, is much more dramatic and comprises a two-stage cable car, a chair lift and a ski lift. Runs are mostly red though there is one black and two blue pistes. The highest point reached is 2900 metres with the ski lift whilst the longest run is a highly enjoyable 6,5 km all the way down to the Alpe Bill cable car half-way station. It is not possible to descend to the valley bottom, though, in the other direction, heading into Switzerland, there is a long, straightforward run all the way to Saas-Almagell. 

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Summer skiing in Macugnaga

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Macugnaga was once well known as a summer skiing destination but now the 320 metre San Pietro ski lift is only opened on an occasional basis when conditions allow in lage spring/early summer.

 

Cross country skiing

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There are also two separate cross-country ski areas offering over 20km of well-groomed slopes. The most picturesque run, mostly through woods and fields, is near the very pretty village of Isella with its ancient Walser buildings. The second run starts at Pecetto towards the head of the valley

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Mottarone in Macugnaga

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Mottarone owes its fame not so much to any inherent merit as a ski resort, rather to its stunning views and its proximity to Milan and Italy’s industrial heartland. Skiing takes place between 1270 and 1490 metres.

 

That said, as a medium sized ski resort with 21 km of piste, there is enough varied ski terrain to keep you happy for an entire day - assuming snow cover allows.  

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Since it was first founded, hundreds of thousands of Italians have learnt to ski here.

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Mottarone has a spectacular position with views over seven lakes and many of the main peaks in the western alps.

And then on those cold winter days, after a day’s skiing, skiers can find a bar or restaurant and sit down in front of the fireplace to enjoy the warmth of a cosy fire.

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In good years, Mottarone is very popular and can get crowded though people on skiis are always vastly outnumbered by non-skiers milling around and admiring the views. 

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Of the two most picturesque runs, one, Corti, offering wonderful skiing against the breath-taking backdrop of Lago Maggiore, has not opened in recent years whilst the second, south-facing and overlooking Lago d’Orta, is often closed due to slushy conditions.

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Pian di Sole

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The only surviving ski resort in Piemonte with views over Lago Maggiore, this ski resort is tiny and at a relatively low altitude (900-1065).

 

With just two lifts and three kilometres of runs, this resort is cheap and cheerful and easy to reach, just a few minutes above the town of Verbania.

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Pian di Sole is nestled in a hidden, north-facing valley which does not directly overlook the lake. If you want to soak up the awe-inspiring views, there is a short walk to the top of the hill. An excellent restaurant, Genzianella, directly on the piste, provides fine local fare.

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San Domenico

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Whether you're new to skiing or a seasoned veteran, you’ll appreciate San Domenico, the only ski resort in the area which has seen significant investment in recent years. It is undoubtedly also the most efficiently run.

 

Anything but quaint and quirky, this destination in which Russian investors are spending like there's no tomorrow is now arguably the area's only world-class ski resort.

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New ski-lifts, including an innovative 6-seater chairlift, hum with Swiss efficiency whilst snow cover is excellent, often allowing skiing up until the beginning of May.

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The lift takes you from the village of San Domenico at 1420 metres up to Ciamporino at almost 2000 metres.

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Before you lies a wide open bowl, 4 lifts and a wealth of blue, red and black runs, including some which are very steep.

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There is no cross country skiing but there is safe off-piste skiing and a snow-park for skateboarders. Beginners are also catered for with two magic carpets. One of the most exciting recent improvements is the artificial snow system which now makes it possible to ski through the trees all the way down to the valley bottom along a very picturesque piste from the resort's highest point, at 2551 metres down to the valley bottom at 1420, a vertical drop of over 1000 metres.

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Another innovative upgrade is the six-person chairlift which rotates 45 degrees, allowing skiers to enjoy spectacular views.

 

Piana di Vigezzo - Craveggia/​Santa Maria Maggiore

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The area boasts a popular cross-country ski resort, the only one easily accessible by public transport thanks to the quaint Val Vigezzo mountain railway, just 16 km from Domodossola and 32 km from Locarno.

 

This fully equipped ski centre, located on the northern side of the flat valley floor, offers three circuits ranging in difficulty from beginner to advanced.

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The 2.5 beginner circuit winds its way around flat fields and is exposed to the sun so that later in the season the snow can get somewhat slushy; it is also floodlit for night-time skiing.

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The other two circuits, both 7.5 km, snake through pine forests and reach almost all the way to the neighbouring towns of Druogno and Malesco.

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If snow cover is poor, there is another more rudimentary cross-country ski area in Cascine, Valle Loana, above Malesco, 9 km from the main centre.

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The valley also offers the opportunity for traditional downhill skiing in  Piana di Vigezzo - Craveggia

The 15 pistes, reaching a height of 2000 metres, served by 4 lifts are highly flattering and enjoyable. The views are truly spectacular, the terrain varied and the atmosphere, somehow reminiscent of the 1950’s, is very unpretentious and friendly.

Lastly, lift prices are half what you might expect to pay in a large-scale operation elsewhere in the Alps.